Beginning : Cape Wrath Trail - 1997 [Fort William to Cluanie]

In October 1997, after reading David Paterson's 1996 book The Cape Wrath Trail, I was captivated by the concept of this walk between Fort William and the Cape. What appealed the most was the lack of a prescribed or recognised route and the freedom that entailed. 

In 1989 I had followed the West Highland Way, and a year later with that experience, managed to complete the Southern Upland Way. For both walks, I was in a group of friends who supported each other, camped and used hostels or bothies. As enjoyable as those walks had been, they had been easy. 

I decided to attempt the Cape Wrath Trail as a solo walk, following the vague route description in Paterson's book. 


October 1997, I caught the Citylink bus to Fort William and walked to a tiny campground on the Glen Nevis road. Vague memories as I write this now (2015). I remember it sleeting overnight and was cold in my tent. 

Day One
Distance : 25km

Along the A82 to the Mallaig junction, past the high school to reach the Caledonian Canal. As I drew closer to the swing bridge at Banavie, noise of heavy machinery became increasingly intrusive on the autumnal Monday morning. It was then I realised the machines were on the canal itsef. After reaching the bridge, I noticed a high metal fence barring access to the towpath and a prominent sign made sure I knew it. 

Not a good start. Looking at the map for alternative routes, there were none other than an unappealing trudge up the single track road to the north. After only a couple of minutes deliberation, I decided to risk the tow path. Fortunately I had the advantage of some knowledge of its layout and decided to try my luck. I squeezed through a gap between the fence and hedge and found myself at the foot of Neptune's Staircase. Without stopping, I walked briskly up the path, keeping to the hedge side and avoiding eye contact with the workers on the opposite bank. This was a shame as I didn't get a chance properly examine the canal itself. The canal of course was closed for renovations, and all the lock gates were open with water rushing off each stage. 

I continued up the canal towpath to Gairlochy for lunch after eight miles. Afterwards onto the tarmac again and through the oakwoods to Achnacarry. Crossed the old white wooden bridge at the end of Loch Arkaig and west to Achnasaul. I left the road again and followed the rough footpath north between Beinn Mheadhoin and Glas Bheinn to its high point where I pitched the tent at 430m. 

Leg One, Day One - Fort William to Glen Arkaig

Day Two
Distance : 24km

It dawned frosty with ice on the flysheet. I watched a pair of eagles soaring from the crags and returning after minutes without the flap of a wing. the first half-hour of the day was a stiff climb out of the glen up to a high pass between the mountains [As I write this now with hindsight, I should have nipped up the Corbett of Geal Charn (804m), ony 150m higher and 750m off route. Such is life.] After only fifteen minutes, I was in sunshine and removing clothing as I heated up. I could see Glen Garry down below, my next destination and after a few forestry plantations I was on the road to Barrisdale.

I headed west for a mile or so, before striking north again onto the hillside eventually finding an excellent stalkers path that led to the ridgeline. Then descended across the hillside to the wide River Loyne below and had a fairly hairy crossing. I had to wade up to my waist with rucsac above my head. I thought the roaring of the stags on the hillsides were laughing at me. 

Next was to climb out of Glen Loyne and into Glen Shiel, I happily intersected the old military road from Glen Garry and followed the tarmac to the Cluanie Inn. 

I was nackered. My feet were in tatters after carrying such a large rucsac. I stayed the night at the hotel and caught the Skyeways bus home.  

Leg One Day Two - Glen Arkaig to Cluanie Inn